Food

  • Searching for Mixtec Barbacoa Along California’s Central Coast
    by Bill Esparza on June 23, 2021 at 2:31 pm

    Francisco Bautista cracks open the pit in his family’s Santa Maria backyard.For stop two of California’s Barbacoa Trail, a visit to the farm worker communities of the Central Coast for a style of barbacoa scarcely seen outside of Oaxaca’s Mixteco villages In the late summer and early fall of 2020, I spent nearly two months traveling up and down the state in search of California’s Barbacoa Trail, a concrete patchwork of undisclosed pits and distinct communities linked by heritage and […]

  • LA’s Barbacoa Masters Are Working for the Weekend
    by Bill Esparza on June 23, 2021 at 2:30 pm

    Lamb barbacoa at Aqui es Texcoco in Commerce, CaliforniaThe first stop on California’s barbacoa trail is LA, a kaleidoscope of barbacoa, where you can find more more regional styles of barbacoa crammed together than any place on earth In the late summer and early fall of 2020, I spent nearly two months traveling up and down the state in search of California’s Barbacoa Trail, a concrete patchwork of undisclosed pits and distinct communities linked by heritage and fire. Through a collection […]

  • Meet California’s Premier Shepherd, Butcher, and Master Barbacoyero
    by Bill Esparza on June 23, 2021 at 2:30 pm

    Gonzalo Ramirez, a barbacoa master, in his farm in Pixley, CaliforniaOn the final stop of California’s barbacoa trail, meet Gonzalo Ramirez, shepherd, butcher, and master barbacoyero in California’s central valley In the late summer and early fall of 2020, I spent nearly two months traveling up and down the state in search of California’s Barbacoa Trail, a concrete patchwork of undisclosed pits and distinct communities linked by heritage and fire. Through a collection of restaurants, […]

  • A Quest for Ximbó, the Rarest of Barbacoa Dishes
    by Bill Esparza on June 23, 2021 at 2:30 pm

    Dressed tacos with consomé at Barbacoa Los Ramones in Richmond, CaliforniaThe third stop on California’s barbacoa trail devolves into a near-hopeless quest for one of the rarest forms of barbacoa In the late summer and early fall of 2020, I spent nearly two months traveling up and down the state in search of California’s Barbacoa Trail, a concrete patchwork of undisclosed pits and distinct communities linked by heritage and fire. Through a collection of restaurants, street stands, food […]

  • 14 Places to Get Traditional Slow-Roasted Barbacoa in California
    by Bill Esparza on June 23, 2021 at 2:30 pm

    Barbacoa from Antontonilco in Arleta, Los Angeles | Wonho Frank LeeFollow California’s barbacoa trail from Los Angeles to the Central Coast to the Bay Area to find weekend servings of tender roast lamb, goat, and even chicken Barbacoa might be the most treasured meal of the weekend for Mexican families. The pre-Hispanic tradition of pit-roasting lamb, goat, and even chicken and beef has proliferated across California thanks to immigrants who settled into the state’s busy urban centers and […]